(Area policy and access matters should be refferd to the current BMC area representative)

South East Wales and Gower has a bolt policy agreed at a series of Open Meetings at WICC in 1999-2000, chaired by Wayne Gladwin and minted by Stuart Thompson. The bolting policy is listed separately for each crag in the Gower and S.E. Wales Guide by Goi Ashmore and Roy Thomas and published by SWMC. The following aspects of the policy are more general. Please keep to the policy that reflects the wishes of local climbers.

1-     Bolting is defined as the placement of any ‘drilled gear’ assumed to be bolts.

2-     De-bolting/smashing/spoiling of bolts is totally condemned.

3-     New sports route should avoid meeting interfering with existing traditional routes

4-     Where 3 might occur, the first ascensions of the traditional route should be consulted. It is left to the conscience of the leader to consult with others on the first ascent

5-     Retro-bolting, where permissible, requires the permission of the first ascentionist. Retro-bolting for the purposes of this policy, means making a route into a clip up, rather than replacing worn placements with bolts.

6-     Replacement of worn placements with bolts should be on a point for point basis and only apply to specific crags.

7-     Bolting of crags discovered in the future should assume the following:

Natural Sandstone-No Bolting

Gower-No Bolting

Quarried Sandstone-Sports route allowed

Quarried Limestone- Sports routes allowed

Other Rock Types-Apply common sense, i.e. not bolt up adequately protected cracks on natural limestone for instance

 

Bolts should be at least 8.8mm or staples and for sea cliffs should always be BS316 stainless steel. Future discussion/debate on the subject should be directed at the BMC area representative.